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Crazy Horse

5.12a, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: Sep 2003 Steve Mergenthaler
New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Deadwater > Main Cliff

Description

This is a high-quality line with two tricky, beta-intensive cruxes. It's easy to set up a toprope by leading Space Cowboy.

Start in the Space Cowboy corner and go up a few feet, then traverse right to a good right-facing flake. Use a left-facing edge to gain a stance below the first roof. Over this (crux #1) and up to a second roof (crux #2) and on to a third roof. Break this using a crack (#0.5 Camalot), then up an easier face (runout, but easy) to a fixed tree anchor shared with Space Cowboy.

Location

Same as Space Cowboy.

Protection

Bolts and a single #0.5 Camalot. Fixed tree anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Contemplating the second crux on Crazy Horse, Deadwater.
[Hide Photo] Contemplating the second crux on Crazy Horse, Deadwater.