Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (c) Screeching Wall

Arch Evader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ascent of Mudman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curve of Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flight of the Fledgling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Watching Banana's Bend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, Grade V
FA: Robin Barley, John Fantini
Page Views: 65 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sean Godwin on Aug 3, 2015
Admins: Sean Godwin, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the dark grey dyke but don't let it suck you in. Enjoy the good holds and the pump.

From John Wilder: "Watching Bananas Bend goes up the line of bolts for two bolts, then steps right on small holds with big feet, to another bolt. Follow this line up to a ledge, then step left and clip a bolt. Follow this line straight to the top of the wall.

There is a connection to the route to the right part way up this route, so when given the choice, stay left to finish Bananas."

Location

From John Wilder: "Head up onto the ledge that is at the base of the Screeching Wall and move left- climbing up a bit to a two bolt belay at the base of a black/grey chunk of rock. The bolts are a bit left of a tree stump."

Watch yourself on the belay ledge and rapping. It's fine, just be careful.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Sean Godwin
Vancouver, BC
 
Sean Godwin   Vancouver, BC  
 
Thanks John! I've updated the Location and Description with your info. Jan 18, 2017
5.10 climbing doesnt get any better than this, great movement between big holds. Jan 13, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
Since there's alot of routes up here that are right next to each other, here's a bit more beta.

Head up onto the ledge that is at the base of the Screeching Wall and move left- climbing up a bit to a two bolt belay at the base of a black/grey chunk of rock. The bolts are a bit left of a tree stump.

Watching Bananas Bend goes up the line of bolts for two bolts, then steps right on small holds with big feet, to another bolt. Follow this line up to a ledge, then step left and clip a bolt. Follow this line straight to the top of the wall.

There is a connection to the route to the right part way up this route, so when given the choice, stay left to finish Bananas.

A spectacular climb that deserves all three of its stars in the book. May 31, 2016