Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Acropole des Draveurs

Contorsions T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
L'Envol du Monarque T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1
Momentum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sens unique T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 660 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Fred Mauger, Charles Roberge
Page Views: 240 total, 8/month
Shared By: HugoD on Aug 3, 2015
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


0 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

During the summer of 1983, Gaétan Martineau and his friend Louis Paré have climbed Monarque (Monarch), a mythic and majestic climb located on the left flank of l'Acropole des Draveurs in the Hautes-Gorges.

On July 4th 2015, Charles Roberge and Fred Mauger were the first to climb the obvious dihedral that cuts the whole cliff vertically, next to Monarque.

This route was named L'Envol du Monarque (The Monarch Flight) in honor of Gaétan Martineau, a great Quebec climbing pioneer, who passed away tragically a few weeks before the first ascent.

A thorough cleaning would be necessary before a free ascent (5.12?). Open project.

-----------

Pitch 1 - 5.10+ 50m

Climb the ramp that disappears into the dihedral. Sustained pitch in the 5.10 range. A magnificent crack hidden by vegetation is used for protection. Once clean, this pitch will be a genuine jewel! Build a belay station about 3 meter after the left face large chimney's end.

A possible variation would avoid vegetation and loose blocks by climbing the criss-crossing crack on the left face.

Pitch 2 - 5.9+ A1 30m

Delicately stem the dihedral. A piton would potentially save a lot of time here (aid). Layback to a thank-God jug and a nice crack (belay).

This pitch probably goes free in the 5.11 range.

Pitch 3 - 5.10+ 40m

Do not climb the crack above. Traverse right (thin) to a short right-facing dihedral (5.8). The rest of the pitch is easy. Build a belay station where the vegetation ends, at the base of a slab with many cracks.

Pitch 4 - 5.8 A1 50m
Most of this pitch was aid-climbed on the first ascent. Aid-climb the slab for 5-10 meters, pendulum to the left to gain the left face of the dihedral and a slightly overhanging crack. Join the exit dihedral and use a white birch to belay.

This crack is most likely at least 5.12. Other exit variations are possible.

---------

Grades and pitches' lengths need to be confirmed, as the route was mossy and somewhat loose on the first ascent.

Location

Ride a bike or take the free shuttle bus to Barrage des Érables (i.e. the dam).

Approach on a long and obvious 4th glass gully (about 700 meters). Plan at least 2 hours

L'envol du Monarque start is located between Monarque and Momentum, on the left flank of l'Acropole.

Descend by the popular Acropole des Draveurs hiker's trail (1h15).

Protection

Double rack to 2-3 inches. One 4-inch cam and extra small cams.
Optional : 1 or 2 pitons (helpful!), a metal brush and a small hand-saw

Photos

0 Comments