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Thunder Road
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Sport, 205 ft (62 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Vernon Pinney, Dennis Laughlin-1985 Ground Up |
Page Views: | 1,576 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Mikel Madsen on Aug 3, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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P1
Starts low on the buttress and works up through dirty holds with good bolts where you need them. Easy climbing with nothing too thought provoking. The crux of the climb comes at the bulge mid way up. You get a good stance below and then fire through the thin crystals on the bulge with bad feet. 1 or 2 moves and its over. Go up to the awkward and at times uncomfortable belay anchor that looks like it could be replaced. Its rusty and its 3 old handmade hangers with chain.
P2
Steeper climbing right off the anchor follow the flake/chimney with a couple of fun exposed awkward moves above clipping nicely spaced bolts to the easier " arch " of the buttress. Anchor on top you could likely rap off with one 60m rope to the north with a bit of downclimbing. Or 1 70m is plenty.
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