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With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla

A2, Trad, Aid, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Jacob Smith
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lookout Point Area > Rattletale Wall

Description

Pitch 1 (C2+) -
Clean aid out a prominent, long, left/downward facing arch just right of Arch Enemy and then ascend briefly to a bolted anchor. Expect some excitement with tiny gear right off the ground, followed by some good pieces at the apex of the arch, and then the crux as the crack becomes shallow and flaring.

As far as free climbing is concerned, consider this an open project. Be aware that a boulder pad or three is probably better protection than any of the gear you're going to get until the apex of the arch.

Pitch 2 (A2) -
From the bolted anchor at the top of pitch 1, bat hook right to a series of upward facing flakes, then head up the thin seam from the bolt, many beaks placement but some pods for solid clean gear too, ends at a bolted anchor just before the large treed ledge.
This pitch would likely go clean at C3-4.

Location

Obvious prominent arch just above where the trail to Rattletale Wall splits (left to Rattletale, right to other new routes).

Protection

Standard clean aid rack for the first pitch, ball nuts and offset cams a must.
I strongly suspect that the more ball nuts you have, the easier this climb becomes.

For the second pitch, take a small iron rack with an emphasis on beak-type pitons of all sizes, also clean gear to .5 inches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A2 Beauty
[Hide Photo] A2 Beauty
Ballnuts good
[Hide Photo] Ballnuts good
Myself on the first FA attempt, first half of the crack still quite mossy (but now clean-ish).
[Hide Photo] Myself on the first FA attempt, first half of the crack still quite mossy (but now clean-ish).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
[Hide Comment] Nice route name Jacob, and it looks like a fun, clean route. Aug 3, 2015
Tee Kay
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] you'll want to find a belay slave? :) also, great name Jacob! Aug 25, 2015
Stig gles
Index
 
[Hide Comment] I'm assuming you'd be less than stoked on bolts for free climbing.... Nov 19, 2016
Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
  A2
[Hide Comment] Stamati - It's complicated, we can talk about it if you want. Nov 24, 2016
[Hide Comment] Super fun, now that the spiders have been evicted.
P1 felt stiffer than any C2+ I’ve been on, granted that’s only a few. Jul 9, 2023