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Routes in Pandora

A Skxawng's Line T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack In The Space Time Fabric T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Shadow You Will Ever See, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Straighten Up and Fly Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Talus Knirschen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wrath of the Talus Monster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrinkle, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: A. Mollard, R. Suggett, 7/2015
Page Views: 269 total, 9/month
Shared By: Boissal on Aug 2, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start by a patch of thorny shrubbery with easy moves on positive edges to gain the first bolt (a #2 would keep you off the deck if the unthinkable happened before clipping). Continue pulling big moves on small incuts, eventually hitting the arête below a blank patch of the face. Escape left around the corner to a finger crack and tiptoe up a slightly hollow flake using finger-size pieces for pro (make sure to use long runners) until you can reach the apex of the arête. Shuffle right below the roof on non-existent feet, aiming for a last bolt which appears completely off route to the right (rock quality dictated this placement). Pull a thuggy move to get above the roof and wander to the anchor via a wide hand crack.

A harder variation shoots straight up the face between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, avoiding the arête via a tricky sequence of hard moves on really small crimps. It meets up with the original line at the top of the arête and feels about 11c/+.

(edit: the direct line was done on lead and apparently goes at 11b. Guess I can't climb. I still feel that avoiding the arête may keep the grade at 11+)

Location

WOTTM is the first line you'll see after coming down the fixed line into Pandora. Looks on the tower to your right for a clean concave face with a number of short crack features.

Protection

5 bolts, a couple of finger-size pieces and a hand-size piece (#3) for the original line. Skip the small stuff and add one draw for the direct line.
Mandatory long runners for the small gear (consider a runner + a draw) as well as the last 2 bolts.
Chain anchor at the top.

Photos

Roy Suggett  
 
It is hard to determine if the stress fracture of the metatarsal was from the talus or the weight of Alexis's pack which had quite the display of paraphernalia including a painting station, enough bolts and hangers to spray the side of Half Dome, two sandwiches (some of that was later eaten by a small dog), hammers, chains, etc. None the less, this is a great line! Thanks Alexis (who also is not the model of stability...but a hell of a great guy). Aug 3, 2015
I hope your talus bone heals quickly Aug 2, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
 
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
 
After countless hours running around the Jungle's loathsome choss fields with reckless abandon, I finally awoke the resident Talus Monster. The struggle was short and brutal and ironically seems to have cost me my right talus bone. Watch yourself up there, the ground isn't exactly a model of stability... Aug 2, 2015