Wrath of the Talus Monster
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 60 ft|
|FA:||A. Mollard, R. Suggett, 7/2015|
|Page Views:||273 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal on Aug 2, 2015|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionStart by a patch of thorny shrubbery with easy moves on positive edges to gain the first bolt (a #2 would keep you off the deck if the unthinkable happened before clipping). Continue pulling big moves on small incuts, eventually hitting the arête below a blank patch of the face. Escape left around the corner to a finger crack and tiptoe up a slightly hollow flake using finger-size pieces for pro (make sure to use long runners) until you can reach the apex of the arête. Shuffle right below the roof on non-existent feet, aiming for a last bolt which appears completely off route to the right (rock quality dictated this placement). Pull a thuggy move to get above the roof and wander to the anchor via a wide hand crack.
A harder variation shoots straight up the face between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, avoiding the arête via a tricky sequence of hard moves on really small crimps. It meets up with the original line at the top of the arête and feels about 11c/+.
(edit: the direct line was done on lead and apparently goes at 11b. Guess I can't climb. I still feel that avoiding the arête may keep the grade at 11+)