Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mont de l'Equerre

Redcoats Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renaissance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 850 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Patrick Brouillard, Hugo Drouin
Page Views: 316 total, 11/month
Shared By: HugoD on Aug 1, 2015
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Mont de l'Équerre is internationally famous its ice climbs La Pomme d'or (WI5+, 350m) and La Loutre (WI5+, 350m) as well as Paul Ross and John Porter's 1972 400 meter rock route Redcoast Ressurection.

This route was named Renaissance because it was Patrick's first climb after his arm was nearly broken in a freak accident a few weeks before and because it was this very large crag's first documented new rock route in over 40 years.

Renaissance climbs a distinctive buttress left of La Pomme d'or and La Loutre.

The 5.10+ crux is short, well protected, and can easily be aid-climbed.

Pitch 1 - 5.6 R 40m
Climb a scarcely protected face to a ledge.


Pitch 2 - 5.5 55m
Easily trend left on a rising ramp, force a passage on the face, and move up and right as far as you can on Cascade 74 ramp.


Pitch 3 - 5.0 55m
Scramble up and left to the base of the buttress. Build a belay station at the base of clean vertical cracks.


Pitch 4 5.9 45m
Climb the leftmost crack (dihedral), and enjoy the ride to a belay on a ramp, before the cracks widen to a chimney. This five star pitch is reminiscent of the classic Lido on mount Gros-Bras!


Pitch 5 - 5.7 25m
Climb the chimney, slinging the large chockstones for protection.


Pitch 6 - 5.10+ (easily aidable at 5.8 A1) 40m
Climb the off-finger crack on the face (crux), overcome a chimney, a small roof, and cracks to a very large forested ledge.


Descent : Rap the route.

Location

A fun 4-5 km canoe ride is required to reach Mont de l'Équerre in the summer. This will let you sink in the remote and wild nature of the adventure in which you're about to partake.(1 hour)

First, drop the canoe at the dam (Barrage des Érables) and paddle to Mont de l'Équerre, located on the Malbaie river's west bank (paddler's left).

Dock the boat on a small beach and walk up to the base of the wall on very unstable scree (another hour).

Renaissance start is located left of La Loutre, a fantastic mixed climb in the winter, and a large humid black streak in the summer.


Climbers who wish to approach this climb in a purer form are encouraged to swim (not...).

Protection

Double rack to 3 inches.
Double ropes are recommended.

Photos

0 Comments