Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Aiguilles de Chamonix (Plan de l'Aiguille)

Frendo Spur - Aiguille du Midi AI3 M4
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3950 ft, Grade III
FA: Edouard Frendo and Rene Rionda, July 11, 1941
Page Views: 1,643 total, 57/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Jul 31, 2015
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The route meanders up the spine of the spur looking for the line of least resistance until the upper rock section is exited left on a slanting dihedral that goes around 5.8. The upper third of the route starts off on a steep aesthetic snow ridge followed by steep ice slopes, up to 80-degrees for two to three pitches either exiting left or right around the rock buttress at the top. The ice is steeper if going left. It is also possible to go directly up the upper rock buttress as done on the first ascent, but rarely done now given the development in ice climbing techniques and equipment. Do not underestimate the commitment level of this route, despite its proximity to civilization as the route finding can be difficult and the climbing tedious.

Location

From the Plan d'Aiguille station or the refuge nearby head up and right to the base of the spur aiming for a left to right snow ramp about 200 ft above and right of the bergschrund. Takes about 45 minutes to approach. From the top it takes about 20 minutes to reach the Aiguille du Midi telepherique station for the way down.

Protection

Depending on season and conditions bring mostly a standard rock rack with 4 or 5 medium screws. Double ropes recommended.
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
 
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
 
August ascent in dry conditions, with exit left at the upper part. Somewhat a long video but it captures the essence of the climb and the crowds that meet you at the top

tvmountain.com/video/alpini… Sep 17, 2016
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
 
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
 
to each his own, but the route is typically done in 10 - 12 hours in dry summer conditions. Aug 23, 2016
Bogdan P
Boulder, CO
  AI3-4 M4
Bogdan P   Boulder, CO
  AI3-4 M4
Grade III? Perhaps, but set aside a full day for it anyway and get an early start.

I don't agree on the double ropes suggestion. No long rappels are needed (or rappels of any kind), the route is mostly simulclimbed, and the more difficult pitches don't meander much at all, so the double ropes don't help. Perhaps the author was thinking that they'd be helpful to retreat? But certainly not necessary.

We had doubles and a single. We took the single and in retrospect I wouldn't do it differently. Aug 22, 2016