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Routes in Lower Bulldog Cliff

Bush Pilot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyote Ugly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eager Beaver S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Four on the Floor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Other White Meat, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tight Fit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Michael Benge
Page Views: 103 total · 3/month
Shared By: Joseph Crotty on Jul 31, 2015
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an Indy Pass classic for the grade. It's on you from the moment you leave the ground. At the second clip, traverse right and then directly up on solid but spaced out holds. There is a hard to spot but bomber pin in the roof about eight feet up and slightly right of the second bolt. A second crux awaits at the last bolt.

Location

Around the corner and a bit uphill from Bush Pilot, find a decent flat dirt and rock platform. Climb the overhanging semi-gash to the first clip, and it's game on. The slightly right-leaning, 20' crack/rib feature above the roof is unmistakable.

Protection

Three bolts and one pin and a two bolt anchor with chains.

You can bring a few finger and hand-sized pieces for the flared lieback section above the roof before the last bolt, but it's so flared nothing fast and bomber is available - it is best to skip the gear and punch it to the last bolt and then get down to business.

Photos

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The route to the left, Buns Up (5.12b, M. Benge, Chris Beh), is also a worthy, short-but-sweet route. Aug 3, 2015