Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Vallée Blanche Basin

Arête des Bosses / Goûter Route PG13
Contamine Grisolle AI2 M2
Cosmiques Arête 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4
Goulotte Chéré AI4
Kuffner Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2
Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular Route
Perroux-Profit Goulotte AI4 M5
Tour Ronde North Face AI2-3 Steep Snow
Vent du Dragon AI4 M5+
Type: Ice, Alpine, 1150 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Robert Chéré and Jacques Tranchant, August 8, 1973
Page Views: 696 total, 24/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Jul 31, 2015 with updates
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a very popular ice climb on the Triangle du Tacul. Low on objective dangers but expect to have others parties above and below you. It can be done in 6 pitches to the top of the gully and then two or three additional pitches trending right on easy snow and mixed get you to the top of the shoulder providing access the normal route of Mont Blanc du Tacul. There are fixed rappels stations from pitch 6 down the gully, if you go to the top of the shoulder traverse right on steep snow to the normal route and walk down. The down climb on the normal route is both exposed to seracs and can have avalanche hazard (safer to rappel the route). P1 45-degree ice/snow, P2-50 degree ice/snow, P3- up to 75 degree ice or about 20 feet of rock (M3) climbed on the right side if in lean conditions. P4 - up to 85 degree of ice and the traditional crux pitch, P5 - less steep with short section of 80 degree ice. P6 - up to 60 degree ice and snow.

About 4 hours to climb the main difficulties. It is 550 meters from the bergschrund to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4238 meters, 13,904 feet)

Location

Triangle du Tacul is the broad rock pyramid on the North side of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Readily visible from the station on Aiguille du Midi. The climb is the most prominent ice gully on the right side of the pyramid, simply follow the most tracked path to its base. During periods of deep snow, the first pitch will be covered in snow. 45 minutes from Aiguille du Midi or about 20 minutes from Refuge des Cosmiques

Protection

standard ice rack and small assortment of rock gear during lean ice conditions (Camalots C4 0.75 to 2 and nuts). There are fixed belay/rappel stations until the top of the gully.
kenr  
A frequently-seen name in English reports and questions for this route is, "Chere couloir".

The correctly-accented French name is "Goulotte Chéré"
. . . (misspelled on SummitPost.org). Jul 14, 2017
Chris C.
Seattle, WA
  AI4
Chris C.   Seattle, WA
  AI4
Mixed up to M4 can be added to the rating. Sep 29, 2016
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
 
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
 
video of the route

youtube.com/watch?v=6-w7EOG… Sep 30, 2015