Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1150 ft (348 m), 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Robert Chéré and Jacques Tranchant, August 8, 1973
Page Views: 3,224 total · 37/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Jul 31, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, David Riley

You & This Route

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This is a very popular ice climb on the Triangle du Tacul. Low on objective dangers but expect to have others parties above and below you. It can be done in 6 pitches to the top of the gully and then two or three additional pitches trending right on easy snow and mixed get you to the top of the shoulder providing access the normal route of Mont Blanc du Tacul. There are fixed rappels stations from pitch 6 down the gully, if you go to the top of the shoulder traverse right on steep snow to the normal route and walk down. The down climb on the normal route is both exposed to seracs and can have avalanche hazard (safer to rappel the route). P1 45-degree ice/snow, P2-50 degree ice/snow, P3- up to 75 degree ice or about 20 feet of rock (M3) climbed on the right side if in lean conditions. P4 - up to 85 degree of ice and the traditional crux pitch, P5 - less steep with short section of 80 degree ice. P6 - up to 60 degree ice and snow.

About 4 hours to climb the main difficulties. It is 550 meters from the bergschrund to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4238 meters, 13,904 feet)


Triangle du Tacul is the broad rock pyramid on the North side of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Readily visible from the station on Aiguille du Midi. The climb is the most prominent ice gully on the right side of the pyramid, simply follow the most tracked path to its base. During periods of deep snow, the first pitch will be covered in snow. 45 minutes from Aiguille du Midi or about 20 minutes from Refuge des Cosmiques


standard ice rack and small assortment of rock gear during lean ice conditions (Camalots C4 0.75 to 2 and nuts). There are fixed belay/rappel stations until the top of the gully.