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Routes in Whorl Mt.

Southeast Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft
FA: Herbert Blanks, Kenneth May, Eliot Sawyer, 1933.
Page Views: 373 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bruce Lacroix on Jul 30, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Route finding may be the crux of this climb. There is a lot of third class climbing. The climbing can be kept at third if you look around. There is a chockstone to pass near the top of the 3rd chute that was nearly snow free in late July, 2015.

To reach the start of the route, from Horse Creek Pass, hike along the obvious bench passing two alpine lakes, and continue on a rising traverse to reach the Southeast face and the left most of three chutes (see beta photos). Horse Creek Pass will be out of sight when you start climbing.
Climb this chute as high as possible at class 3. If you get cliffed out you have gone a bit too far. Look for a passage on the right to gain the center chute. You climb the center chute a short way before another passage leads to the right most chute. The chockstone, in the right chute, will be obvious. Tunnel under this, or climb around, and continue up to an exposed catwalk that will take you to the summit.

You start the climb in the left most of three chutes on the SE face. As you near the top of this chute, you crossover to the middle chute, and then the right chute shortly after. You must pass under a chockstone in this third chute to keep this route at third class. You can climb around the chockstone at 4th class, I have heard, I did not try this.

This scrambling route reminded me of the East Face of Middle Palisade , with a couple extra surprises. A fun route.

Location

Located on the southeast face. See beta photo to find the correct chute to start. Retrace your steps to get down.

Protection

None required. Helmets if you go with a group, lots of lose rock.

Photos

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