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Gold Digger

5.11a, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 10 votes
FA: 1985 Pat Purcell
New York > Adirondacks > B: Chapel Pond… > Jewels & Gems

Description

Up a seam that disappears to a ledge then delicate face climb up a less than vertical face. Difficult section does not last too long but does take a little work. Well, it did for me at least.

Location

Find the seam a few feet right of NCCC (big right trending crack) right in front of the trail leading from the road.

Protection

You can set up a TR by leading NCCC or Diamond and Coal, as this route is directly between the two and will finish at the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Setting up for the crux move (photo credit: Chuck Pacer, my camera)
[Hide Photo] Setting up for the crux move (photo credit: Chuck Pacer, my camera)
Follow the crack into nothingness
[Hide Photo] Follow the crack into nothingness

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Did this on a TR years ago. (Is it even protectable?) I put down 10b since I didn't think I was climbing harder than that when I did it...but maybe? Jun 23, 2016
Shane Kenyon
Adirondacks
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] This would need 2-3 bolts to make it a lead climb. Feels harder than 10c. Jul 19, 2020
Jim Lawyer

  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I've tried to toprope this too. No way it's 10c, and I don't recall any gear. I couldn't finish it without wandering left or right into another route. Jul 22, 2020
Shane Kenyon
Adirondacks
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Well, my 17 yr old crusher buddy Henry got this clean today. Such specific beta and so committing. But it definitely goes without using any holds on NCCC or D&C. Its much harder than Ripples (5.10d) or Son of a Mother (5.10b/c) to compare to a couple of local climbs in the same range and style. Sep 12, 2021
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Looking at the photo labeled “ Follow the crack into nothingness..” I now see that the climb that I was referring to in my note below was the very thin crack to the left of the crack system the climber is on. It too ends in “ nothingness” and I eventually stepped left a bit to a mini overlap and then up.
At least that’s my memory…but it’s been years, if not decades now. May 27, 2022