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Routes in Bend Center

Blue Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Community Project T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ed's Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Introductory Offer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Janet's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Local Knowledge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MX T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peace, Love and Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Riptide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seizure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Voice of the Whirlwind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz, Oct. 1987
Page Views: 188 total, 6/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jul 27, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

I was not aware of this route till I rapped off of MX. It looked good and it is excellent. Gets 2 stars in the book, deserves more. The fist size described was making me worry, but there are hand jams where it looks wide. Because the columns lean north and this is on the left side of a column, with MX on the right side, it is overhanging the whole way, with 2 roofs. The 1st roof is a crux, the 2nd one is bypassed on the left. Save some energy for the top out, gets even more overhanging and pumpy even if easier holds are there.
Tape gloves or handjammies recommended, very handjam dependent getting through 1st roof.

Location

left of MX and off width crack.

Protection

double rack to 3", and a #4 could be placed midway in a wide part. I moved #3 camalots up with me, but there are other sizes to be found. As with other Tieton routes, I like to have a set of nuts prehung on quickdraws. Shares anchor with MX. 70m rope gets you back to big ledge.

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