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Routes in Rediscovery Dome Left

Bataphobia S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheers and Jeers S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dancing With The Devil S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Inferno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Cranks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shangri-La S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Todd Vogel route aka "Arrow to your Heart" T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Tuttle, Todd Vogel and Norman Boles 1978.
Page Views: 346 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brad J on Jul 26, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the far left crack climb. It is 5.8 or so. Easy and straight forward but good for working your trad skills. Standard rack with nuts and mid to smaller cams.

Location

Follow the marked trail to the base. This is the climb on the far left. Use the ramp to get to base of climb.

Protection

Bolted Chain Anchor

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
Route name is "Old Cranks" FA John Tuttle, Todd Vogel and Norman Boles 1978.

ps. Did the route today 9/23/17 with EricL and had a really good time. Route eats wired nuts (consider doubles) and small cams. One 5.7/8 lieback move but generally straightforward with good stances to place gear (nice job EricL). One fixed Leeper pin that we left years ago behind a small flake...probably not to be relied upon after nearly 40 years :).

You can easily traverse to the last bolts on Inferno from the final anchor of Old Cranks and cruise up to that anchor if you would like to top rope nearby climbs. Some straightforward 5.6 face with 2 bolts, well protected. Nov 5, 2016
Eric L
Roseville, CA
  5.8-
Eric L   Roseville, CA
  5.8-
Fun climb, worth the trip out to Bowman. John, thanks for the trip. It does need mostly smaller gear; doubles of nuts is a good idea. Also recommend smaller TCUs. Heading all the way up to TR the other routes is a good idea. Routes in the middle of the wall have fantastic rock to climb. don't miss them simply because of the high first bolt placements! Oct 24, 2017
Nathan Z
Sacramento, CA
 
Nathan Z   Sacramento, CA
 
Anyone know if this is listed as "Day camp" (5.5) or "buddy system" (5.6) in Horniak's North Tahoe guidebook? I did the right of the two cracks ("Day camp"), which felt 5.7 to me.

Whatever it's called & rated, it was great climbing & fun exposure for the grade! May 28, 2018

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