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East Ridge

Easy 5th AI2 Steep Snow, Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3600 ft,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Alaska > Anchorage & Sou… > Anchorage & Sou… > Valdez > Thompson Pass > Sapphire PK

Description

Park at mile marker 27 or Ptarmigan Creek. In the spring/summer you can drive a ways back up Ptarmigan Creek on the pipeline road. Or park at Worthington Glacier State Park TH and go up the Worthington Glacier to gain access.

The East Ridge is similar in nature as the South ridge. In the winter and spring if provides a wild Alaska ridge climb composed of cornices, rime ice, and 5th class sections of climbing and in the summer it is mostly 3rd class rock/choss with a few sections of snow and 5th class climbing.
Access form the 27 Mile Glacier is the same as the South Ridge. Once in the basin ascend up the obvious couloir to gain the col in the ridge. Or ascend 3 miles up the Worthington Glacier. It is a good option to descend the East Ridge and escape down the Worthington Glacier if things heat up on the solar side of the peaks.

Protection

Glacier kit, crampons and ice axe. A small rack or thin pins and nuts.

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The base of the East Ridge.
[Hide Photo] The base of the East Ridge.