Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 143 total · 3/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 26, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Another great route for climbers who want to break into the harder side of five ten climbing. This route has a fairly mellow start and gets progressively harder as you climb higher. Really good holds lead to even better holds and a stopper crux is encountered higher up on the route giving a great ride that would be well in the comfort zone of beginning five ten climbers who wish to push the envelope. Be prepared to be heart broken when encountering a mono and swath of blank, black rock somewhere before the last two bolts. Climbing eases before the anchors on big holds. Overall, this route has great climbing on good rock. And despite the bit of lichen up top, that might thwart an onsight attempt, it's a very classy route. Get on it!

Location

Locate Two Kings and a Queen and head left. The route to the immediate left of Two Kings and a Queen is known as Suicide Jack. The five ten you are reading about is just to the left of Suicide Jack. Access by walking up a bridge made of logs, sticks and stones so that you don't break your bones.

NOTE: Leave the trad rack in the car! There is a route to the right of the five ten that you just read about. You will see two old buttonhead bolts at the beginning. This route does not have anchors. After the two buttonheads is an unprotectable, dirty crack system filled with vegetation and should not be attempted.

Protection

8 bolts. Modern sport climbing anchors. BE CAREFUL! This route is located to the left of an old trad line that has two buttonhead bolts at its start. Don't clip these!

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lee terveen
Spearfish, South Dakota
  5.11a
lee terveen   Spearfish, South Dakota
  5.11a
This route is called, Its A Cool Breeze. This thing is 3 or 4 stars for sure. Sick rock, sick holds and the end is big holds on easy terrain. The end has some licken but nothing to lose stars or sleep over. Definitely get on this wall for some of the better moderates around. Jul 27, 2015