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S Church Crack

5.8 C2-3, Trad, Aid, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Michael Voth
Utah > Northeast Utah > Vernal Area > Central Battleship Fo…

Description

crux is the bottom part of the thin splitter. after an opening hook move a #7 stopper (bd) gets you established. From there its thin nutting that appears straight forward, however many of them pulled under a light bounce test from the rock blowing out. Head up the crack to a nice left hand jug where the angle decreases, then look right for a sort of S shaped crack to transfer to. During my ascent a 000 bd C3 worked to get into it. however it was so sandy after much skating of the cam it finally stuck by being pretty much umbrella'ed. Then a slightly larger cam (.3 bd) or stopper (thank god!) will get you high enough to plug a #1 or #2 cam into poop deck and hop on over there to finish at poop decks anchors. if it were longer it'd be proper C3, but there's probably 2 stoppers that with screamers would keep you off the ground before you get the .3 C4.

Location

immediately to the left of poopdeck. shares anchors.

Protection

tiny to medium stoppers, nothing bigger than a 3 will go in the initial crack with the exception of a #7 at the start. The normal micro stoppers work better than the rp style ones given they have more surface area. 000 C3, 00 C3, .3 C4, and a couple of hand sized pieces to a #3 C4 for the finish on poop deck. a big hook to start.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

High pieces before switching into S crack. #1 bd stopper
[Hide Photo] High pieces before switching into S crack. #1 bd stopper
Another typical stopper.
[Hide Photo] Another typical stopper.
Typical nut on the initial crack
[Hide Photo] Typical nut on the initial crack
opening hook. Theres one more after this. (a bigger bd works)
[Hide Photo] opening hook. Theres one more after this. (a bigger bd works)
Aid climbin
[Hide Photo] Aid climbin
Route. Up thin crack on left, to squiggly crack upper center, to poop deck on right. look close, you can see gear still in it. (buddy wanted to TR aid it)
[Hide Photo] Route. Up thin crack on left, to squiggly crack upper center, to poop deck on right. look close, you can see gear still in it. (buddy wanted to TR aid it)