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Routes in Central Battleship Formation

C-5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honeyshine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poop Deck T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Red, Yellow, Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Church Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2-3
Sugar Briches T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trim Your Bush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Michael Voth
Page Views: 226 total · 6/month
Shared By: michael voth on Jul 24, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

crux is the bottom part of the thin splitter. after an opening hook move a #7 stopper (bd) gets you established. From there its thin nutting that appears straight forward, however many of them pulled under a light bounce test from the rock blowing out. Head up the crack to a nice left hand jug where the angle decreases, then look right for a sort of S shaped crack to transfer to. During my ascent a 000 bd C3 worked to get into it. however it was so sandy after much skating of the cam it finally stuck by being pretty much umbrella'ed. Then a slightly larger cam (.3 bd) or stopper (thank god!) will get you high enough to plug a #1 or #2 cam into poop deck and hop on over there to finish at poop decks anchors. if it were longer it'd be proper C3, but there's probably 2 stoppers that with screamers would keep you off the ground before you get the .3 C4.

Location [Suggest Change]

immediately to the left of poopdeck. shares anchors.

Protection [Suggest Change]

tiny to medium stoppers, nothing bigger than a 3 will go in the initial crack with the exception of a #7 at the start. The normal micro stoppers work better than the rp style ones given they have more surface area. 000 C3, 00 C3, .3 C4, and a couple of hand sized pieces to a #3 C4 for the finish on poop deck. a big hook to start.

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