Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Michael Voth
Page Views: 244 total · 6/month
Shared By: michael voth on Jul 24, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

crux is the bottom part of the thin splitter. after an opening hook move a #7 stopper (bd) gets you established. From there its thin nutting that appears straight forward, however many of them pulled under a light bounce test from the rock blowing out. Head up the crack to a nice left hand jug where the angle decreases, then look right for a sort of S shaped crack to transfer to. During my ascent a 000 bd C3 worked to get into it. however it was so sandy after much skating of the cam it finally stuck by being pretty much umbrella'ed. Then a slightly larger cam (.3 bd) or stopper (thank god!) will get you high enough to plug a #1 or #2 cam into poop deck and hop on over there to finish at poop decks anchors. if it were longer it'd be proper C3, but there's probably 2 stoppers that with screamers would keep you off the ground before you get the .3 C4.

Location

immediately to the left of poopdeck. shares anchors.

Protection

tiny to medium stoppers, nothing bigger than a 3 will go in the initial crack with the exception of a #7 at the start. The normal micro stoppers work better than the rp style ones given they have more surface area. 000 C3, 00 C3, .3 C4, and a couple of hand sized pieces to a #3 C4 for the finish on poop deck. a big hook to start.

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