Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||237 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||michael voth on Jul 24, 2015|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
crux is the bottom part of the thin splitter. after an opening hook move a #7 stopper (bd) gets you established. From there its thin nutting that appears straight forward, however many of them pulled under a light bounce test from the rock blowing out. Head up the crack to a nice left hand jug where the angle decreases, then look right for a sort of S shaped crack to transfer to. During my ascent a 000 bd C3 worked to get into it. however it was so sandy after much skating of the cam it finally stuck by being pretty much umbrella'ed. Then a slightly larger cam (.3 bd) or stopper (thank god!) will get you high enough to plug a #1 or #2 cam into poop deck and hop on over there to finish at poop decks anchors. if it were longer it'd be proper C3, but there's probably 2 stoppers that with screamers would keep you off the ground before you get the .3 C4.
tiny to medium stoppers, nothing bigger than a 3 will go in the initial crack with the exception of a #7 at the start. The normal micro stoppers work better than the rp style ones given they have more surface area. 000 C3, 00 C3, .3 C4, and a couple of hand sized pieces to a #3 C4 for the finish on poop deck. a big hook to start.