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5.11a, Sport, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 30 votes
FA: Tony Sartin and Bill Schifone, 7/5/2015
California > Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area > Bear Crag > 6) Teflon Wall

Description

This climb is mega! begin in a seeping dihedral, angling up and left around a column to another, cleaner dihedral. Stem past crux moves between the 4th and 5th bolt to easier climbing up to a ledge. From here, excellent face climbing on blocky holds and clean, bullet rock leads to a restful stance just under the wild overhang which guards the summit. Tackle the steepness on positive holds, gunning for the skyline. It's best to clip the anchor after you get your hands over the summit block.

Location

Begins 15 feet right of Hamster Style, in a seeping dihedral between grossly vegetated walls on either side.
WARNING!!! This climb uses all of a stretched 70 meter rope to get down. Please tie a stopper knot in the end of your rope.

Protection

16 bolts. Double steel biner lower off at the top of the cliff.
35 meter route, 70 meter rope reguired.

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Climber is on the route, Optimizer
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Sounds great, thanks for the new line. Jul 23, 2015
screamn hand
Redlands
 
[Hide Comment] This is a MUST DO if you are here! A little dirty at the start but will clean up with more traffic.The finish and exposure are worth the price of admission. Jul 27, 2015
[Hide Comment] Excellent climb! my new favorite moderate at Bear Crag... Aug 13, 2018