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Routes in Sapphire PK

East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2
South Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2-3
South Tooth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3600 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,100 total, 38/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Park at mile marker 27 or Ptarmigan Creek. In the spring/summer you can drive a ways back up Ptarmigan Creek on the pipeline road.

The South Ridge via the 27 Mile Glacier ice fall is a mega classic skimountaineering objective and test piece. The crux of the day may be negotiating the ice fall to gain access to the Pk. The ice fall is a 35-40deg snow or ice slope and is condition dependent on whether to exit left or right due to the seracs and crevasses. Cross the 27 Mile Glacier and gain the col between Gendarme 5,570 and Sapphire, the snow slope is 30-40 degrees and in the early season or summer there may be a large bergshrund present that can be avoidable by skirting a class 4 rock rib to the climbers left. Once at the col ascend the 5th class and corniced South ridge.

Protection

Glacier kit with a few pickets, crampons and ice axe. Skis!

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