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Giant's Chimney

5.9 R, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Andy Tuthill ~1978
New Hampshire > Rumney > Summit Cliff (The Hig…

Description

What an amazing feature. You can literally spot it from miles away. It is a shame it is almost always wet and therefor filthy.

A wide chimney/dike slashing through the otherwise unbroken wall. This bold climb stands out as the dominant feature on the intimidating summit cliff.

I have yet to climb it due to the endless wetness but to say the climbing would be spectacular if it was clean and dry would have to be a statement of truth. Looking right while climbing one of the adjacent routes you can get a great view of the climb, it's rusty pins and lack of too much in the way of protection. After leading The Path of the Righteous it would be possible to traverse right to a bolt and possibly other directional pro to TR the route. I would love to clean it and lead it one day but until then I will settle for what I can get.

Location

Climb the start of the 5.7 to the tree ledge. then if you can't find the route see an eye doctor haha.

Protection

rotted out pins and gear, lots of loose rock & wet moss, bolt at the top. finish on the anchors of Path of the Righteous (I think). Lead not recommended until cleaned and retroed

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

such a cool chimney!
[Hide Photo] such a cool chimney!
finishing up the chimney
[Hide Photo] finishing up the chimney
deep in the dankness
[Hide Photo] deep in the dankness
Torie in the big scary chimney
[Hide Photo] Torie in the big scary chimney

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] I top roped this one last year and it is a great climb. A member of team tough told me that it might get bolted which would attract a lot of people and would help keeping the route cleaner. Even dirty as it is I totally enjoyed the huge bridging all the way up. I wouln't do it on gear... Jul 22, 2015
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This was fun to top rope but still serious at that... There are directional bolts you can gain from path of the righteous and I placed a cam as well in the face... Wear a helmet, there is a LOT Of loose stuff in the upper part of the chimney... The pins it had been said were rotten, I gave a few gentle tugs on a slung pin and It didn't break it disintegrated leaving me holding the sling...

As for retobolting, I'd like that but it would be so much work to make it safe I'm not sure it would see the traffic to justify it... We gotta make a trail... It's just so much trail 😳 Oct 14, 2015
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] I will probably be mostly pulling out of activity at Greens next week for the season, so hope to be able to start on the cleaning of this line soon. The trick will be getting a time when there is nobody below to do the initial prying of the loose stuff. I may have to leave a fixed work rope on it to be able to jump on it quickly when conditions permit.

Being a little bit of a pain to get up there is probably a good thing. I am not sure how much traffic this confined area could handle, with thoughtless people shitting and pissing and knocking scree down. Oct 15, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] What is your goal Mark? Will this route be retroed or you just want to make it a cleaner and safer trad climb? The gear needs to be placed deep in the chimney but the fun climbing is just at the edge of it. If this route gets retroed, only a brushing job is needed. Oct 15, 2015
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] My idea is to bolt it with SS glue-ins(Andy, the FA, is all for it) , but I need to start with getting rid of the loose stuff and cleaning it up to see how it most naturally climbs, clipping spots etc. I am happy to pitch in the work, but I have to see if the RCA will see it as a worthwhile redo project and provide the bolts. Oct 15, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] This is a great idea because it is a real cool climb that is abandonned up there because there are not enough trad climbers to go for it. I've seen people eyeballing this feature. Since I cannot climb anymore I was thinking maybe working at building a trail up Summit Cliff. I would also clean "The boy who cried wolf". This crag hosts some really beautiful lines but has a bad approach. Oct 15, 2015
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] We've had trails up there, but they get demolished from the falling ice and runoff. You have to stay along the more protected left side as much as you can if you hope to have it last a bit. Unfortunately there is very little good material to work with up there. The rocks are mostly small and oddly shaped. Built up RR tie staging areas would just get smashed except for a few spots. The best strategy I think is to just do what you can in the more protected spots and expect to have to re-mattock any switchbacks that head out towards the center periodically, and then try to get people to tread as lightly as possible when hiking up and down (and discourage people bringing their dogs up there, since they dig, tear up and down and don't stay on trail) You need water bars too. Oct 15, 2015
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Maybe a better system of ropes off to the left side would do the trick. As well as fixing a couple of spots to be easier to pass... Oct 16, 2015