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Scare Factory

5.9, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > H: Southern Mou… > State Brook

Description

This is the face climb behind the big tree at the right edge of the dirt cone with the erosion control logs. I'm calling it a 5.9 because IMO it's a much better route at that grade than calling it a 10d, which it is if you climb the top part past the single bolt. I climbed the route with the easier finish of the route to the left (Sully's Success 5.6) then climbed the 10d part on TR. Those moves were sketchy as hell and very non-obvious. And I thought the bolt was a bit too high, but again, I was on TR at that point.

Formerly named "The Boy Scout..."

Location

Right of the dirt cone. First move is stepping right onto the front face (thin vertical crack here).

Protection

Bring a rack to fill in the gaps between the three bolts of the lower face. This isn't a sport climb, and there is testy edging and balancey moves before the first bolt.