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Routes in Statebrook

Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berlys ArĂȘte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Lions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unnamed Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Statebrook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 98 total, 3/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This is the face climb behind the big tree at the right edge of the dirt cone with the erosion control logs. I'm calling it a 5.9 because IMO it's a much better route at that grade than calling it a 10d, which it is if you climb the top part past the single bolt. I climbed the route with the easier finish of the route to the left (Sully's Success 5.6) then climbed the 10d part on TR. Those moves were sketchy as hell and very non-obvious. And I thought the bolt was a bit too high, but again, I was on TR at that point.

Location

Right of the dirt cone. First move is stepping right onto the front face (thin vertical crack here).

Protection

Bring a rack to fill in the gaps between the three bolts of the lower face. This isn't a sport climb, and there is testy edging and balancey moves before the first bolt.

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