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Meloncholy

5.11a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 21 votes
FA: Bill Boyle
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Middle Fork > Melon Wall

Description

Steep 11a. Just gotta find the good holds. Hang on and you can send it.

Location

Right route on this wall

Protection

7 bolts to chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Meloncholy action, June 2020.
[Hide Photo] Meloncholy action, June 2020.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leron
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Bolting is poor on this route. Clipping the chains is the crux. The belay is awkward as the ground is very sloped and loose. Feb 22, 2016
Slay er
Ogden
[Hide Comment] I think this is a great route and the bolting is fine. You have to head a little right at the end and reach past the chains for a great clipping hold. Classic maple 11a jughaul pumpfest. Aug 27, 2016
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This needs new anchors. Big time. Sketched me out. May 29, 2018
Andy Bandos
CO
 
[Hide Comment] I can't remember being more scared on a sport climb. The last 4 bolts either spin or stick out of the rock. The anchor also contains two bolts that stick out about an inch. One is a spinner as well.

It's a shame because the movement is actually very nice. I just don't recommend it in its current state. May 29, 2020