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Routes in Peak 12,563

Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Galen Rowell, July 1982
Page Views: 255 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Jul 16, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fun route is a good adventure climb in it's own right or a great warm-up for other climbs in the area. It hasn't seen a ton of traffic as of 2015 so there is a bit of flakey rock.

There are a lot of possible variations here, this one works well.

Start left of the toe of the ridge and left of an orangeish right facing corner, around 11,670 feet. Climb a few pitches, choosing your own adventure and staying just left of the crest of the ridge.

This leads to a shallow gully with 3rd and 4th class ledges and some loose rock. Up this to gain the ridge crest.

Once on the crest there is some 5th class climbing but it's mostly 4th class to the summit block, which is 5.2.

Descent

Descend the sandy west slopes and back through Royce Col.

Protection

Single rack to #3 C4.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.6
A fun route, if broken in areas, the final pitch dumps you (literally) on a narrow ridge with outstanding views. The summit block is not for the faint-hearted. Aug 11, 2015