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Routes in Statebrook

Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berlys ArĂȘte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Lions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unnamed Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Statebrook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 323 total · 10/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Jul 14, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A real attractive line along a thin, winding crack that passes through a couple overhangs. Rated 10a in the online guide, with a comment there that it may be only 5.9. I TR'ed it and no way it's 10a, but I don't doubt it may feel more serious and engaging if the gear is a ways below your feet. So I'm going with the average of what I experienced and what the guide says.

Location

Start 8-10' left of the big Sully's chimney.

Protection

Rated PG, and from what I saw, I'd agree. Drop-in anchor at the top.

Photos

Rob Upton  
 
This could quite possibly be the best climb at the crack. Pretty sure its 5.9 once you figure out all the moves. Small cams helpful at the bottom and the top. Jul 17, 2016
This is an awesome route!


I think that this route is accurately graded at 5.10a for a couple reasons. First, on-sight and on lead, it takes a few seconds to work out the first overlap and the second roof. Especially with the first overlap, the hands are not as positive after the lip of the overlap. This leaves you hanging around while you work out beta. Second, the climbing is sustained throughout with a few good but balancy rests worked in.

Gear beta: save a bigger cam for the end of the climb. (#1 or #2 C4) Sep 28, 2015

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