All Locations >
South Dakota
> The Needles Of…
> Horsethief Lake…
> The Chessmen
> Happiness is Water
Happiness is Whiskey
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 130 ft |
FA: | Chris Pelczarski, Sam Nicolai, July 13, 2015 |
Page Views: | 361 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Tater Tot on Jul 14, 2015 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
This route climbs a beautiful feldspar line on the south face. The first 15 feet climbs up some blocks under a very small roof. You then step right off a ledge onto the face and begin a section of about 100 feet of climbing where the difficulty never drops below 5.7 and never above 5.8. Very beautiful and continuous steep line with awesome positive holds almost the whole route.
After a short minor crux near the fourth bolt, climb left of a crack which takes a couple pieces of small gear, through the route crux. Head right and then back left to the top from here. Obvious line.
Count on some fairly long run outs on the route, sometimes 20 feet plus.
Also, the rock quality is not perfect on this route. A few holds here and there are suspect. Quality is especially a bit less near the first bolt. We broke 2 or 3 holds on the FA. Be careful and thoughtful of the holds you use! Clean falls though due to steepness.
All bolts placed on lead using hooks.
After a short minor crux near the fourth bolt, climb left of a crack which takes a couple pieces of small gear, through the route crux. Head right and then back left to the top from here. Obvious line.
Count on some fairly long run outs on the route, sometimes 20 feet plus.
Also, the rock quality is not perfect on this route. A few holds here and there are suspect. Quality is especially a bit less near the first bolt. We broke 2 or 3 holds on the FA. Be careful and thoughtful of the holds you use! Clean falls though due to steepness.
All bolts placed on lead using hooks.
1 Comment