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Routes in Happiness is Water

Happiness is Whiskey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horning Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Dennis Horning and Doug Quiett, August 13, 1972
Page Views: 45 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tater Tot on Jul 14, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Happiness is Water has been lost for almost 43 years. Touch the Sky only has it shown on the maps, without any written description. The new Busse & Burr guide also has no information on it, only that it is supposedly 5.5. We discovered the location of the spire on the FA of a separate route. Upon reaching the top of the spire, there was a perfect intact glass jar register with only the two names in it from the first ascent in 1972. Pretty wild.

The register says they climbed the SW cracks. This is a gaping flaring chimney which looks crumbly and scary, with questionable gear. I would doubt it to be 5.5 but probably not too much harder. There looks to be a crux at the top of the chimney where it narrows down.

The register also said that they climbed it on a 95 degree day...probably where "Happiness is Water" came from.

Location

Look for a cave feature on the southwest corner and a chimney above.

Protection

Unknown pro.

Rap anchor near top of new route on south face. Can rap with one 70 m rope for sure.

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