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Routes in Upper West View / Sunset Wall

General Hong's Army TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
InoYormos TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
La Cucharita TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Hutt's TP TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Torque Around TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Torqued Off TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 169 total, 6/month
Shared By: James Elric on Jul 13, 2015
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

This is the right-most crack at Sunset Wall.

A 2-3 move hard sequence that will challenge your core strength as you strive to create a foot hold that can push you to the jugs above the crack.

After the crack you have a no hands rest on a ledge. Head for anchor point #2 via the steep southwest face. It looks bare but get up close to find a side pull. Commit to leaning hard left to make the most of it and make a couple big moves to the jugs up top.

Rating is tough to call. It flows like two consecutive boulder problems. Crux for most people will be the first portion on the dark crack but the upper portion is pretty burly.

Protection

top rope anchor, not safe for crash pad

Photos

James Elric
rockville
 
James Elric   rockville
 
Personally I think this is a solid 12a or even a B. I find it way harder than the 12As i've done at the new and rumney. very anxious to see what other climbers think. Jul 20, 2015