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Secret Lover

5.10a, Trad,  Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
FA: Skine Boynton
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Hatcher Pass > Archangel Valle… > Diamond

Description

Start left and below Toto, where the buttress turns the corner, on the right side of the arete where there is one very low bolt. Climb up and left to the left side of the arete on lichen ridden dirty (and possibly loose) rock and small cracks. Continue climbing just left of the arete through more somewhat dirty and loose rock to a grassy ledge. Above here the route becomes much cleaner and better. Climb up the slab/face just left of the arete into the start of the diagonal corner. Climb directly up from the base of the diagonal corner and over a bulge/small roof (harder), or go up the diagonal corner and move right (easier), to a large and flat granite ledge with anchor station.
From here you can continue up pitches 2 & 3 of the Diamond's Unknown 5.9 into Toto.

Location

Left and below Toto just right of the arete where the buttress turns the corner. There is a very low bolt here.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Todd on Secret Lover
[Hide Photo] Todd on Secret Lover

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mat Brunton
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This route would be more highly rated if the bottom was cleaned up. The top half is good and clean. The bottom half dirty and somewhat loose. Jul 12, 2015
C Williams
Sketchy, Blackvanistan
[Hide Comment] Get brushing! That first bolt used to be higher but the bottom 10 ft of this climb has been buried by erosion from the slide area. A fun climb though if I remember right. Jul 15, 2015
Mat Brunton
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Brushing? Gotta keep it Alaskan! Jul 17, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
[Hide Comment] Excellent climbing from the bolts onwards, bottom isn't too bad, just dirty! Jun 26, 2016
[Hide Comment] FA skine and Raina july 2000 Feb 24, 2017