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Routes in Oblivion Wall

Buddha's Gut S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crack Ate the Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Chicks Tryin' to Be Sexy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Got a Dollar? S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gut Punch the Buddha S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hat Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karen Carpenter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pinch the Buddha TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: James Williams
Page Views: 148 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dr Williams on Jul 10, 2015
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Start on the now broken mini-tufa of "Pinch the Buddha". (You can also use the tree to get up to the featured band but probably makes the route 5.10b). At about 10 feet off the ground, follow the features and transverse to the left and join "Gut Punch the Buddha" between the 1st and 2nd bolts. The crux is joining Pinch the Buddha. At the ledge, use either a static move or a mini-dyno from the right. After obtaining the ledge, follow and finish on "Gut Punch the Buddha."

Location

Reimer's Ranch South Band
Shortcake Wall (aka "Oblivion Wall")
Start is to the right of Gut Punch the Buddha and on the beginning of Pinch the Buddha

Protection

TR or you can use the 3 bolts of Pinch the Buddha. Anchors at the top.

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