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Fu Manchu

5.12a, Sport, 115 ft,  Avg: 3.7 from 7 votes
FA: Darrell Hensel, Tai DeVore
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Mustache Wall

Description

This route has good variety and is reasonably continuous. It starts with small holds face, has some seam climbing through the middle, and ends with steeper good sized holds. It's hard to believe it took so long for this line to get done, as it is quite obvious, with good rock as well as good movement. Yet another score by the prolific Tai.

Start by climbing the green face left of Notorious B.E.G. past 4 bolts on technical small holds crimping - the crux is probably in the vicinity of the second bolt. Move left at the 5th bolt, then up before going back right into the leaning seams, passing 3 more bolts. Above, climb the steeper face just right of the arĂȘte past the remaining 5 bolts, going through the initial bulge and then over two more small roofs.

This pitch is 35 meters long - be careful when lowering off.

Location

First route left of Notorious BEG. Note that as mentioned elsewhere the sorted order for the Mustache Wall routes has Coven and Notorious B.E.G. reversed.

Protection

13 bolts. 70m rope mandatory.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darrell Hensel
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The anchor has been swapped out to facilitate "clip and lower" - no longer rings. Enjoy, it's a good one. Jul 11, 2015