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Routes in Unicorn Valley

2016 American Refugee Camp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Awesome Ends With Me T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B52 Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chippy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of a Thousand Echoes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude Biscuit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guillotine, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumping On The Bed S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Po Damn Democats T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Puppy Dog Tails T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tree Log Frog S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under The Radar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unicorns Fart Rainbows S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Carrington
Page Views: 191 total, 6/month
Shared By: Mike Carrington on Jul 5, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

The first 50 feet of the route is a little dirty but will clean up with time, but there are some great jams along the way and a first crux, 5.8. Go under the giant car-size chockstone into the tunnel where you can look up at the second squeeze chimney crux, 5.8. You can get some gear in horizontal crack on either side of the chimney as you make your way up. Bring a #6 cam or a Bigbro unless you want to run it out like I did.

The first pitch is about 150 feet to the anchors. The second pitch is the crux of the route and is only about 60 feet long. A wide bottom leads to an offwidth section that I did with my left side in.

Location

This route is the huge, right-facing dihedral on the far left of the wall with the giant chockstone in it.

Rap 3 times to get down. The second rap is a rope stretcher, so be very careful, and you go over several roofs. So to get to the last rap anchors on the top of the sport routes on Unicorn Valley, you have to swing in to get on the ledge. This swing might be hard for some, so you can also rap down the second pitch and walk climber's left on the huge ledge, under the rock, then walk clockwise around the formation to get back to the base of the climb.

Protection

Trad gear, bring a #6 Camalot or Bigbro unless you feel comfortable running out the chimney section. Smaller climbers will have an easier time here as they will fit right in the crack. There are bolted anchors.

Photos

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