Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Topher & Patience Donahue, Simon Fryer, Melissa McManus, 1999
Page Views: 695 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dylan Cousins on Jul 5, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This climb takes the southeast face of The Foil. I have some trepidation about submitting it as I only climbed the first 1.5 pitches and the last, but hopefully this submission will get more people to climb it. Then I can look at pictures and go do it properly ;) The quality of the first pitch alone dictates 3/4 stars.

P1 (~160') - locate a large dihedral with a stunning splitter on the right wall. Climb the splitter from fingers through thin hands. The rock is a bit scaly at the start. Continue through the squeeze chimney (a #4 Camalot can be used), and finish up the corner (mostly hands) to a nice belay ledge. The belay takes 1.25" pieces if you managed to save any or large stoppers work.

P2 (~100') 5.9 - make a few moves off the belay, get some gear in flakes, then step left under the arch, then further left to the ledges, and set a belay.

P3,4 5.10, 5.9 - The Poc Club takes some 5.10 face climbing then links two long left-facing dihedrals to a stance below the summit area.

P3 (var.) (120') 5.9 - I began in the large open dihedral but then began to trend up and left through the golden rock (offset small wires are useful at first) to a belay on the South Face proper. This will put you below nice, golden rock on a very comfortable belay ledge (pitch 5 in a picture on the South Face page).

P4 (var.) (~140') 5.9 - if you're on the South Face, now climb the golden rock starting at the left end of the belay ledge. Take the face crack with a fixed #0.3 BD cam, then step right back to the east face (a bit runout 5.7). Climb the easy dihedral, then make a 5.8 move out of the dihedral/ corner, and step right to a stance.

P5 - now you can follow the south face or the Poc Club. The South Face goes straight up from the belay. The Poc Club traverses right from the belay on good holds without pro for ten feet to a corner. Climb this to the north face of the spire, and ramble up easy terrain to the summit (or take the 5.9+ fist crack in the summit block).

Descent - I usually hate bringing two ropes, but the 5.5 chimney that you have to climb to do the walkoff looked heinous. Follow that description on the main Foil page or... the rappel:

R1 - from the summit, rap from slings ~80' north with a single rope.
R2 - rap from more slings ~40' to the northeast (obvious, large ledge).
R3 - rap ~150' east to an obvious, slung block.
R4 - rap ~90' east with one rope to reach the ground (a 60m is required here if using one rope).

One could probably break R3 into two and then just bring one rope. This will require adding a station, but is what I would do if climbing the Foil again.

Location

Find the start of The Poc Club by hiking the gully between the Saber and the Foil. Where the gully splits, take the left fork closer to the Saber. Scramble up some easy but slightly steeper and loose terrain along the base of The Foil (now trending right). Look for the giant dihedral with an obvious splitter on the right wall.

Protection

SR + #4 Camalot and RPs.

Photos