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Routes in The Foil

Poc Club, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Topher & Patience Donahue, Simon Fryer, Melissa McManus, 1999
Page Views: 512 total, 17/month
Shared By: Dylan Cousins on Jul 5, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This climb takes the southeast face of The Foil. I have some trepidation about submitting it as I only climbed the first 1.5 pitches and the last, but hopefully this submission will get more people to climb it. Then I can look at pictures and go do it properly ;) The quality of the first pitch alone dictates 3/4 stars.

P1 (~160') - locate a large dihedral with a stunning splitter on the right wall. Climb the splitter from fingers through thin hands. The rock is a bit scaly at the start. Continue through the squeeze chimney (a #4 Camalot can be used), and finish up the corner (mostly hands) to a nice belay ledge. The belay takes 1.25" pieces if you managed to save any or large stoppers work.

P2 (~100') 5.9 - make a few moves off the belay, get some gear in flakes, then step left under the arch, then further left to the ledges, and set a belay.

P3,4 5.10, 5.9 - The Poc Club takes some 5.10 face climbing then links two long left-facing dihedrals to a stance below the summit area.

P3 (var.) (120') 5.9 - I began in the large open dihedral but then began to trend up and left through the golden rock (offset small wires are useful at first) to a belay on the South Face proper. This will put you below nice, golden rock on a very comfortable belay ledge (pitch 5 in a picture on the South Face page).

P4 (var.) (~140') 5.9 - if you're on the South Face, now climb the golden rock starting at the left end of the belay ledge. Take the face crack with a fixed #0.3 BD cam, then step right back to the east face (a bit runout 5.7). Climb the easy dihedral, then make a 5.8 move out of the dihedral/ corner, and step right to a stance.

P5 - now you can follow the south face or the Poc Club. The South Face goes straight up from the belay. The Poc Club traverses right from the belay on good holds without pro for ten feet to a corner. Climb this to the north face of the spire, and ramble up easy terrain to the summit (or take the 5.9+ fist crack in the summit block).

Descent - I usually hate bringing two ropes, but the 5.5 chimney that you have to climb to do the walkoff looked heinous. Follow that description on the main Foil page or... the rappel:

R1 - from the summit, rap from slings ~80' north with a single rope.
R2 - rap from more slings ~40' to the northeast (obvious, large ledge).
R3 - rap ~150' east to an obvious, slung block.
R4 - rap ~90' east with one rope to reach the ground (a 60m is required here if using one rope).

One could probably break R3 into two and then just bring one rope. This will require adding a station, but is what I would do if climbing the Foil again.

Location

Find the start of The Poc Club by hiking the gully between the Saber and the Foil. Where the gully splits, take the left fork closer to the Saber. Scramble up some easy but slightly steeper and loose terrain along the base of The Foil (now trending right). Look for the giant dihedral with an obvious splitter on the right wall.

Protection

SR + #4 Camalot and RPs.

Photos

Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Poc Club is described in both the Gillett and Rossiter guides, though they break the pitches up differently. As Joseffa mentioned - the rock quality is poor, including crux pitch 1 (hollow flake sounds while placing cams in the crack... belayer should have helmet and be alert). If you are ok with some choss and are seeking adventure and solitude (unlike the nearby Petit), this route may be appealing. Bring 60m double ropes to rap (double 50m ropes might not make the second rap). Also, have the last person rapping from the grassy ledge (the 2nd rap) adjust the knot, so it sits *below* the edge as it otherwise may get caught. Aug 23, 2017
Rappel info: some cord needed to replace some of the old webbing at the summit. Rap Northeast about 80' or so to an anchor to the east on a grassy ledge at top of descent gully. You can see this from the summit. It's climber's right of the route. Then rap almost full 60m length with double ropes to another anchor in the gully and to climber's right of above anchor. Final double rope rap gets you within 30' of the start, so no need to bring shoes on the route. Rap length about 150'. Aug 20, 2017
We had #1-4 Camalots, double #1-#3s, and 3 or 4 each of #0.75-0.5, then 3 green Aliens size, and doubles blue and black Aliens and stoppers. We did the route in 4 pitches. P1 crux pitch as described above, then P2, go up about 10' from the belay and traverse left under the crescent arch, then traverse left about 30' or so (5.7R) to a right-facing dihedral and up that about 20' to a belay on the left (square 2'x2' belay ledge was nice). P3, continue up the right-facing corner and pull a small roof then head right and pull a crux move on fairly bad light colored rock to a belay ledge on the NE side (climbers's right). P4, climb first the right-facing dihedral for about 25', then switch to a left facer. Then continue heading climber's right around and to the top via easy terrain, about 150' or so. The 5.9 fist crack mentioned in the guidebook is only about 20' before the summit and off a ledge on the right. With rope drag, we skipped that finish and just did the easy accent to the summit rap anchors. Overall, a fun summit but not great rock on this tower. Aug 20, 2017
Ben - I doubt you're a huge wuss. For other's reference: I guess I always take standard rack (SR) to mean double cams these days. Also triples in those sizes might not be a bad idea. Aug 7, 2017
Ben Collett  
 
I am a huge wuss, but on the first pitch, a double set of cams with triples of green and purple Camalots would have been nice. Aug 13, 2016