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Crawling from the Wreckage

5.13a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 10 votes
FA: Bryan Burdo (1998)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Mt Washington > Bob's Area > Lost Resort

Description

Fun athletic climbing salvaged from the vagaries of sometimes dubious rock quality. Definite must do for those who can. The only mar to this thug-life route are several sharp holds, some craftily clinging to the cliff on a veneer of epoxy.

V5/6 climbing followed by 12- yet sneaky moves at the top.

Location

Find the belly like bulge of Lost Resort, smack in the middle, and fire up the guns!

Protection

7 bolts and chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up at the route
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the route
Beginning of route
[Hide Photo] Beginning of route
Crux section
[Hide Photo] Crux section
Crux section
[Hide Photo] Crux section
Route follows line of quickdraws in center of photo.
[Hide Photo] Route follows line of quickdraws in center of photo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Ellis
Bellingham, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Would be 4 stars if not for a few crumbly footholds. Definitely one of the better routes of the grade in the North Bend area, although there are only a few other 5.13a's that I know of. Fun, flowy movement throughout with several distinct cruxes and a heartbreaker move to a jug. Pumpy! Jun 26, 2017
Jamie Sookprasong
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] As of 2 Aug 2020 there were project draws hanging on this route. I believe the bottom couple were green, then a mix going up to the chains. Recording the date so people know they're at least this old when making the call whether or not to trust them. Aug 3, 2020
Ales Kobrle
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] Last year I gave it just 2 stars because of rock quality. Decent crimp broke with me during clipping second last bolt. Then I found different clipping position, but during other two attempts some foot broke with me.

I returned this year with hope of fast send. But the route ended up to be more stubborn with a second crux at the end, and I had to return two more times. First 5 attempts this year, I always broke some smaller foot hold or foot chip. But for the last 5 tries rock was clean and solid. I guess it also helps that the route gets more traffic since people are looking for more remote local areas and new climbs, with all the travel restrictions. So now it is in a great condition to jump on it ;-).
They are some glued key holds which look weird but they are solid. You can still break some foot chips trying different beta or get little off the route. So I definitely recommended helmet for belayer, even most likely the rock will miss them due to the steepness of the route.

Rock is much cleaner now and climbing positions and moves are great and fun, so it deserves more traffic and at least 3 stars from me :-). Aug 5, 2020
Princess Puppy Lovr
Rent-n, WA
 
[Hide Comment] I feel like the "Crux" isn't actually the hardest part in the current state. The very top of the route going for the glory jug is, there is a great right knee bar before the final section. The crux is also at most v4 however this thing is still very hard. Jul 12, 2021
Michael Hauss
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Super cool route! Agree 5th (cited as 6th above) clip is tenuous off weird RH sloper with thumb catch. Also agree the section labeled as "crux" in the photos is not the crux - this may actually be the easiest section of the route for me. From the tenuous clip through hitting the hueco felt like the crux. Will have to make the hike back up to send! Power endurance at it’s finest. No move harder than V3/4. Jul 18, 2021
[Hide Comment] Rebolted with SS and permadraws 8/2022 Aug 18, 2022