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Ain't No Thang

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Crown

Description

Amazing route up the steep right-hand wall of the Amphitheater at The Crown. It contains a little of everything: Steep jugs, a traverse handcrack, and a steep crimpy headwall.

Follow the left-rising flake up and left to a right-leaning offwidth stuffed with chockstones. Go up this (surprisingly solid) to a horizontal crack in an overhanging wall. Jam 15' left with heel hooks to a fairly good rest on jams, then launch straight up crimps interspersed with restful jugs to the fixed anchor.

Descent: Lower from the anchor; you'll be 20' out from the base of the route.

Location

Locate the amphitheater with the 25'-deep horizontal roof 40' up. This route is located on the wall right of the roof where the terrain goes uphill to the right, below a left-rising flake in an overhanging wall.

Protection

Bolts; fixed anchor. To reduce rope drag, unclip the 4th bolt after clipping the 5th. The belayer can also unclip the first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the end of the leftward traverse.
[Hide Photo] At the end of the leftward traverse.