Spoiled by Shade
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
Routes in Sugar Bowl
|Anything but Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Back Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Backdoor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fire Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Five O'clock Shadow T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Spoiled by Shade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Stairs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||57 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Marta Reece on Jul 1, 2015|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionWhen looking at the Sugar Bowl, Spoiled by Shade is the prominent corner on the left side of the wall. We spent a July morning there enjoying the shade, hence the name. The route has certainly been climbed, we found an easily removable piton on it, so if anyone knows its original name, please let me know.
Pitch 1. 5.7, 70 ft. Climb up to and up the black streaks left by water falling over bulging rocks. Head left below the first, tiny tree. Traverse left on a ledge to a steeper section in a poorly defined corner. A few interesting moves will take you to a nice belay ledge in now very obvious corner.
Pitch 2. 5.8, 80 ft. Go up the chossy, right-facing, corner. It slants right, so except for the very start of it, any loose rocks are guaranteed to the belayer. The climbing is protectable but tricky. The crux, located where the rock gets steeper, may be done in the corner (5.8+) or out on the chossier rock to the right (5.8). In either case, the protection is solid, as it is throughout the pitch. Belay may be set up at the top of the corner, allowing the leader to watch his second.
Pitch 3. 5.5, 30 ft mini pitch. Climb up the easy choss, but don't drop any flakes of destruction on your belayer. This pitch could be combined with Pitch 2, but the danger in that is having the rope rub against the sides of the super-choss found here and rain on the follower as they come up the upper part of the corner.
LocationOn the left side of the "bowl." The easiest approach is along the widest ridge, the one directly below the left rim of the bowl. At the top of it, scramble to the bottom of the corner. (You might want to start climbing from there if you are ambitious.) We followed the bottom of rock about 30 feet to a grassy spot below the location where the water goes down. (Note a large tree on a ledge above that, directly over the start of the route.)
It may be a good idea to leave packs lower on the ridge, so you don't have to go back to the start of the route.