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Routes in Aguja Nuez

Mujeres, Tequilas y Otras Yerbas T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: F. Indovina, E. Silveti & J. Vera, 1999
Page Views: 220 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nicolaides on Jul 1, 2015
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Good route for warming up and practice placing gear. Last pitch is the best! First pitch requires a bit of route finding skills.

P1) Scramble up easy terrain. Belay at a big boulder (5.5, 50m).

P2) Continue up and left, following corners diagonally (5.7, 40m).

P3) Follow the same dihedral for another long pitch (5.8, 45m).

P4) Finish the corner system, going to the top of the prow (5.9, 45m).

DESCENT: Rappel the route.

Location

The route works its way up an evident dihedral of varied inclination, and finishes next to a huge rock called "proa" (meaning prow in Spanish).

The descent is down the same route. Doubles needed! Beware of getting your rope caught in cracks (better to rappel with the backpack method rather than tossing the rope).

Protection

Standard rack of Camalots (#.3 to #3), nuts and two 60-meter ropes.

All belays have bolts, except the first which is done using a big boulder. The ones in the second station are a bit rusty.

Photos

Nicolaides  
 
Watch out for loose/broken rock on the approach and first part of the route. The rock quality becomes better as you go up. Jul 1, 2015