Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||259 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||John VanNostrand Jr on Jun 30, 2015|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionStart just left (uphill) of Pump a Lama.
There is a shallow, cave-like feature with obvious crack here and there down low. The first bolt can be clipped from the ground, but it is better to stick clip the second bolt. The direct start is hard, and starting just left is more pleasant. Dont worry you got 90 feet of technical, restless 5.12+ climbing to go. There are a couple cruxes. About 20 feet up coming over the lip of the overhanging rock is crimpy and in your face. The second crux is about 60 feet up, and there is a blank wall that is dead vertical with a few crimps on it and almost no feet. The last two bolts are challenging as well and are solid slightly overhanging 5.11 climbing. Towards the top, stay on route. Climbing right onto the arête is not recommended. This climb is hard the hole way with little rest. The draws are hard to hang in the cruxes. It is easy to climb Pump a Lama and continue up the extension (Pump a Lamanator) to the Easy Spankin' anchors and then hang the draws.
Historical note: Upper Easy Spankin' originally could of been done by jumping onto 30 Meters of Meatballs or by doing a variation that went right and stayed near the arête. The last bolt of the original right variation is now one of the anchor bolts. It avoids the dirty, runout at the top to the 30 Meters of Meatball anchors.