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Routes in Silver Mountain

Between a Block and a Hard Place S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Angel Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Carpe Dildo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Debit or Credit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Worry, Bzzz Happy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Large Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mosquito Bait V4 6B
Resurrection T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Single Bolt slab T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c X
Sneaking Past the Guard V5 6C
Sport Route, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
That Shitty Mossy Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Welcome to the 906 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Old School or Jon Jugenheimer as bolted 2015
Page Views: 644 total · 20/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on Jun 28, 2015
Admins: jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin

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Description

Resurrection-To bring back to life-I spotted this line in the fall of 2014 and came back to clean and work it summer 2015. Upon setting up a line from the trees above, I discovered two anchor bolts at mid-cliff height slightly left and above the line(later learned are the anchor bolts for the route Matrix, which has been chopped and waiting to be rebolted). I began to clean the lichen and moss from the crack system as best as possible, burning up a wire brush in the process. Lower down on the route, I uncovered two chopped bolts in thick lichen, protecting the opening moves off the ground. I spent a lot of time trying to find any gear low on the route-micro-nuts, pins-anything to keep this a pure trad line. I added three SS bolts to keep the route safe from ground fall and left the upper 3/4 the route (with the crux) bolt-free as it will all go on gear utilizing small cams and wires.

Please respect the bolt-free upper part of the route, as it now has been led all on gear.

Location

This route is located slightly downhill from the two currently (6/2015) bolted routes right of the 5.8 curving trad line called "The large crack". The lower trail from the climbers' parking lot leads directly to the route "The large crack".

Protection

Three bolts lead to a classic finger and hand crack above. Bring one large piece (but not necessary) to open the crack climbing above the bolts.

Standard rack with small wires and cams are useful.

Photos

Danjoannes
Madison, WI
Danjoannes   Madison, WI
Left a .5 in the crack after an awkward fall, let me know if found I will pay for shipping to recover it! Jun 7, 2017
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Pretty frigg'n cool route. Needs more traffic for sure. It's on my Trad list for this coming fall if and when I am back to normal.... Jun 29, 2015

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