Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Equipped by A.L. & J.J. & P.P.
Page Views: 728 total · 17/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on Jun 28, 2015
Admins: jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin

You & This Route


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Description

Resurrection-To bring back to life-I spotted this line in the fall of 2014 and came back to clean and work it summer 2015. Upon setting up a line from the trees above, I discovered two anchor bolts at mid-cliff height slightly left and above the line(later learned are the anchor bolts for the route Love Street, which has been chopped and waiting to be rebolted). I began to clean the lichen and moss from the crack system as best as possible, burning up a wire brush in the process. Lower down on the route, I uncovered two chopped bolts in thick lichen, protecting the opening moves off the ground.  The route has been re-bolted to it's original state.  Tight start on side-pulls past 3 bolts leading to a left-leaning finger/hand crack.  After crack petters out, head up and right past 2 more bolts to first set of anchors.  

Location

This route is located slightly downhill from the two currently (6/2015) bolted routes right of the 5.8 curving trad line called "The large crack". The lower trail from the climbers' parking lot leads directly to the route "The large crack".

Protection

Three bolts lead to a classic finger and hand crack above. Bring one large piece (but not necessary) to open the crack climbing above the bolts.

Standard rack with small wires and cams are useful.

Photos

Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Pretty frigg'n cool route. Needs more traffic for sure. It's on my Trad list for this coming fall if and when I am back to normal.... Jun 29, 2015
Danjoannes
Madison, WI
Danjoannes   Madison, WI
Left a .5 in the crack after an awkward fall, let me know if found I will pay for shipping to recover it! Jun 7, 2017