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Smells Like Teen Spirit

5.8, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
FA: unknown
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Blue Sky > Pheromone Wall

Description

Romp up the highly featured black slab to a small roof. The roof has many good holds and there are a variety of ways to overcome it. Some of the rock looks a bit suspect in this section but everything seems quite solid. Above the roof more slab climbing on steeper rock with good holds gets you to the anchor.

The route does not appear in the Spearfish guidebook by Mikel Cronin.

Location

Directly right of the classic Dragonfly and on the same black slab.

Protection

10 bolts to open cold shut anchors. This climb is very well protected and suitable for beginning leaders.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

lee terveen
Spearfish, South Dakota
 
[Hide Comment] It's called smells like teen spirit. It's a Great lead for the beginner, well protected and not steep. Rockfall came off the route while cleaning so don't be worried about being smashed. 5.8 sounds about right. Jun 29, 2015
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Thanks Lee! Jun 29, 2015
Dave Cowley
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Looks like there was a rock fall recently on the climb, be careful belaying. Great protection and fun May 2, 2016
BBQ
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] I love this route! It is by far the best 5.8 climb in the canyon. It is more fun than Beggar's Banquet (which is really fun by the way) and way more fun than Preparation H at Skeletal. Combine this with All Strung Out On Crack, Thumbellina, Dance of the Dragonfly, and some other easy climbs at Blue Sky, and you will have yourself a good ole time all the live long day. The climbing is varied, a bit challenging, but never freaky. It is the perfect Spearfish Canyon beginner climb because it forces the climber to concentrate on footwork (this thing "Smells Like Teen Smear-It!) and footwork is essential to success in Spearfish Canyon and many other climbing areas. GET ON IT! Dance of the DragonFly USED to be the first climb I got on when I climb at Blue Sky...sorry, Reggie and Kyle, when I hit up Blue Sky, THIS will be the first climb I get on...and DragonFly will be the second. A POPULAR WARM-UP and all around super good climb. GET ON IT! Four out four barbecue grills. Apr 11, 2017
Travis Bieber
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Keep an eye open while under this route. Still some big rocks coming down from it. Feb 27, 2018