Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,785 total · 80/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 28, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The 5.8 variation to the standard North Arete route is a fantastic option with more mandatory 5th class climbing and is great for passing slower parties.

Start in the dihedral 100' left of the standard start, and immediately right of the sport wall.

P1. Follow dihedral, stem up past 5.8 top out to a ramp. Continue higher or belay at a comfy ledge to the right by a small tree.

P2. Depending where you belayed, finish the dihedral and then follow a long 3rd class ramp up and right. Turn left and belay at a giant ledge.

P3. From the ledge, go straight up a vertical crack for 50', 5.6 with a few harder moves at the top. Lands on another huge ledge. This pitch is great for passing slower parties on the standard route.

P4. Continue up the crystals pitch!

Simul or solo to the middle and South Summits. Class 4 with proper route finding. Class 5 without.

We descended west from the South Summit. Class 3-4 for 100' down to a tree, then class 3 ledges and switchbacks down to the base.

Location Suggest change

100' left of the standard route

Protection Suggest change

Nuts, cams .3-2". Doubles in a few random sizes could be nice.