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Chain Smokin'

5.10c, Sport, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 2 from 37 votes
FA: Curtis Gibson & Dale Fleshman (2001)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Deception Crags > Substation

Description

A short route with a tricky bouldery start. It climb up the arete, and then eases off. It feels harder than 5.10c unless you know the trick.

Location

Just left of Hurly-Burly and right of Primordial Blues, starting over the cave.

Protection

3 bolts, chain anchor with loweroffs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chain Smoken (10c) follows the rope line. Very short route.
[Hide Photo] Chain Smoken (10c) follows the rope line. Very short route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Whats the trick? It was a pretty hot, high gravity day today but this thing felt hard. Aug 16, 2020
[Hide Comment] Bear of a starting move! I sure couldn't figure it out. Oct 6, 2020
Daniel Chode Rider
Truck, Wenatchee
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Well I managed it, but I don't think I found any secret.
Right hand crimp, higher left hand crimp, then hang on that for a moment while you get your left foot up, then shove to the sidepull jug. So basically a power move. There's probably a way to heel hook this and make it easier on the arms but I couldn't find it.
Then, just don't get pumped.... make big moves and you'll find jugs.
Crux felt easier than the .11-'s I've tried but definitely harder than the other .10c's I've done. .10d or c/d, idk. May 30, 2021
Jesse Dunn
Seattle, WA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Initial sequence is a legit V3 boulder problem. The rest is fairly easy, and it's short, but the first bit goes closer to 10d/11a imo. Apr 15, 2023
Arthur Kock
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] I have no idea how anybody thinks the starting boulder problem is harder than V1. Maybe I did it wrong? I simply climbed up directly underneath the first bolt straight up, using two good crimps and getting high feet. Maybe if you pull onto the underbelly of the roof it could be V3 lol Sep 3, 2023
Jesse Dunn
Seattle, WA
  5.10d