Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 850 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Karl Kvashay and Brandon Gottung May 2015|
|Page Views:||8,089 total · 250/month|
|Shared By:||Brandon Gottung on Jun 25, 2015|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Seasonal Raptor Closures
***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
The RouteTucupit occidentalis links up cracks of all sizes with memorable face sequences to the top of the west face of Tucupit. The route is sustained with a variety of cruxes and is generally very well protected. Rock quality is mostly phenomenal with a couple sandy sections near the top serving as a reminder that you are in Zion. As a bonus, Kolob offers a stunning backcountry setting that you don't get in the main canyon of Zion.
T.occidentalis shares the first two pitches with the first ascent of the wall: Bill March's and Bill Forrest's West Face, then breaks left linking wonderful cracks and corners to the top of the wall. If you continue straight-up with pitch 3 for 60m, the beautiful steep split face topped with a hanging flare above is the Red Morph var. pitch - a five-star 5.11+ tips crack.
P1: 5.10. 35m. Climb the slab left of the oak filled slot and move right into the chimney which protects with a #6 and optional blue bigbro (protects the #6 from the rope). Tech up the finger crack into the alcove and belay on gear and fixed pins or link into P2, for a full-value 60m pitch avoiding the worst belay stance on the route. This pitch is rated 5.8 according to the original West Face topo, we up-rated it to a reasonable 5.10.
P2: 5.10+. 25m. The classic free pitch of the original West Face passes two drilled angles (Bills' originals) into a cruxy transition to a finger crack and onto the featured face, finishing with a leftward traverse to a two bolt belay at a decent stance.
P3: 5.8. 35m. Move left into the clean chimney that protects well. Exit left on the ledge system 25 m out (as the flake inside the chimney begins to divide it in two separate crack systems) and climb either the left-trending shallow groove (5.9) or continue left to the splitter finger crack (5.7) up to a two bolt belay at a good ledge stance.
P4: 5.10+. 55m. Climb the beautiful sculpted face split by a finger crack into the long, low-angled off-fingers corner, through two pods then out the steep tight hands bulge. Catch your breath (or set an optional belay) at the pod then charge up the sustained flaring #5 offwidth to a comfortable 2-bolt belay.
P5. 5.10+. 40m. Move up and right to a handcrack, up a slot, and into the acute left-facing corner above. A short, hard crux defends the amazing rocker block belay with a fixed nut and hex anchor.
P6. 5.10. 20m. Follow discontinuous cracks off the rocker block to a delicate leftward traverse protected by two bolts. Between the second bolt and the arete, move up then left around the arete to avoid the hollow feature below and continue to a small ledge in the corner and set a gear belay.
P7. 5.10+. 50m. Climb the wildly huecoed corner into the soaring, left-leaning off-fingers crack out onto the north face. Bask in the position and jam up the impeccable tight-hand crack. Build an optional belay at the sit down stance on top of the crack or continue up and right to a 5.8+ mantle then following the path of best rock to a two bolt anchor directly above the rocker block belay below.
Red Morph variationP3 Red Morph var. 5.10. 59m. Rather than moving left, continue along the central crack system to a beautiful but short splitter on the left, back into the wide crack with constriction feature to a small, flat ledge. Nuts and a red alien for a bomber anchor.
P4 Red Morph pitch. 5.11+. 30m. Take the beautiful warm-up fingers corner on the right up to the steep red wall split by an amazing technical tips crack into the shallow flare that looms above. Bring a bunch of small cams and small offset stoppers. After the flare, move left to the anchor on top of P4 of occidentalis. From here, rapping down and climbing the original P4 and up through the rest of the climb makes for 1000 foot climb!