Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Danks

A Little Kush For The Final Push S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beer Goggles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black and Tan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowin' Kisses At Disinterested Bitches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Sky Blond S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blueberry Train Wreck S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blunt Arete, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Booze Cruize S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Coin Operated Killing Machine S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faded S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freakin' High S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GoldShlonger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hash It Out S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippie Grenade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Housed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurtin' for a Squirtin' S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I Like These Plants S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
If We All Had a Bong Weed All Get Along S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jackinated S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jessica Crimpson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
JuggerMeister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kim Gnardashian S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Laughing Grass S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mary Jane S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Munchies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
My Bitch Makes Pizza S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
My bitch ain't no lady S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pabst Blue Ribbon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Party Foul S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Party In My Pants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Patina Aguilera S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pickin' Fights With Dykes On Bikes While Wearing Sexy Spandex Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Puke Stain, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roach, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Root Beer'd S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage Party S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schmitt's Gay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Screaming Barfies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
She Ain't No Lady Unless She's 280 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smearnoff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smoke Like a Chimney S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stakes Are High And So Am I S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sticky Icky S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tellin' Charming Lies Between Thunder Thighs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This Is Your Brain On Jugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Drunk To Huck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Transversetite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Twist One Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upchuck S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Michelle Larsen
Page Views: 356 total, 12/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jun 23, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the better routes in The Danks for a beginning leader to feel totally awesome on. Experience just about every type of hold and move Spearfish Canyon has to offer with plenty of bolts to clip exactly where you want them. It is also great as a top rope for those who are new to climbing outdoors.

Starts on a slab for three bolts and works its way up a system of big ledges to a semi-steeper section on bright yellow rock. Have yourself a ton of fun working the great pockets, positive crimps, and sick side pulls. Every move gets you into comfortable positions where there is just enough room to put your feet and the clip stances are all very secure. The climbing gets difficult at mid-route when you encounter a slightly overhung microcrux, with a neat sequence of small holds to jugs, like every Spearfish Canyon classic is expected to have.

It even has a small roof to pull if you so choose...or if the pump has you too tired to be awesome...you can pull some easier moves to the left and still gain the anchors in style.

Be sure to clean up your shoes and make sure they are sticky! None of the holds on this great little climb are icky! Get on it get psyched! There aren't too many gems in Spearfish Canyon like this one.

Easy to get to from the main Danks trail after walking down the highway from the parking lot.

After walking up the trail described in Cronin's guidebook the first blonde wall you will see on your right will have climbs like The Roach and Mary Jane on it. To reach Sticky Icky turn left and walk up a slight incline to a nice down hill slope that leads to the next wall.

Sticky Icky is on the left side of The Half Baked Wall. Look for a black slab that leads to a blonde section that ends at a black nose-like roof.

A great warm up for the harder climbs located on The Party Wall which is located just to the left of this climb and around the bend in the trail.

Protection

Bring a dozen quickdraws. The bolting is generous. Anchors are open.

Photos

0 Comments