Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Michelle Larsen
Page Views: 406 total · 9/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jun 23, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

One of the better routes in The Danks for a beginning leader to feel totally awesome on. Experience just about every type of hold and move Spearfish Canyon has to offer with plenty of bolts to clip exactly where you want them. It is also great as a top rope for those who are new to climbing outdoors.

Starts on a slab for three bolts and works its way up a system of big ledges to a semi-steeper section on bright yellow rock. Have yourself a ton of fun working the great pockets, positive crimps, and sick side pulls. Every move gets you into comfortable positions where there is just enough room to put your feet and the clip stances are all very secure. The climbing gets difficult at mid-route when you encounter a slightly overhung microcrux, with a neat sequence of small holds to jugs, like every Spearfish Canyon classic is expected to have.

It even has a small roof to pull if you so choose...or if the pump has you too tired to be awesome...you can pull some easier moves to the left and still gain the anchors in style.

Be sure to clean up your shoes and make sure they are sticky! None of the holds on this great little climb are icky! Get on it get psyched! There aren't too many gems in Spearfish Canyon like this one.

Easy to get to from the main Danks trail after walking down the highway from the parking lot.

After walking up the trail described in Cronin's guidebook the first blonde wall you will see on your right will have climbs like The Roach and Mary Jane on it. To reach Sticky Icky turn left and walk up a slight incline to a nice down hill slope that leads to the next wall.

Sticky Icky is on the left side of The Half Baked Wall. Look for a black slab that leads to a blonde section that ends at a black nose-like roof.

A great warm up for the harder climbs located on The Party Wall which is located just to the left of this climb and around the bend in the trail.

Protection

Bring a dozen quickdraws. The bolting is generous. Anchors are open.

Photos

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