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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tom Merrill, Wayne Poulsen, October 1970 |
| Page Views: | 1,481 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | jakobi on Jun 22, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route starts in a chimney right of the spire; the first pitch is basically to access the base of the tower which sits in a sort of hanging basin feature. Once you've climbed up to the basin and the base of the tower walk around climbers left to the back of the tower to get to the base of the summit pitch.
Pitch one: Climb pretty fun 5.9 hands into the chimney, follow the chimney up getting plenty of gear along the way.The climbing is fairly mellow and the rock is good for the most part. About halfway up pull past some chockstones that are solidly wedged except for one; test them out before you yard on them. Near the top the chimney tightens down and the crack in the back gets wider; it's a bit of a grovel but not as bad as it looks from below. Once out of the chimney walk towards the tower and you'll see an anchor built off a bomber bush which just sounds silly. Belay from here.
Pitch two: Walk around to the back of the tower. Climb 5.9 hands and traverse right through loose 5.6 when the crack fades out to reach another crack. Climb 5.8 mostly hands to the summit.
Pitch one: Climb pretty fun 5.9 hands into the chimney, follow the chimney up getting plenty of gear along the way.The climbing is fairly mellow and the rock is good for the most part. About halfway up pull past some chockstones that are solidly wedged except for one; test them out before you yard on them. Near the top the chimney tightens down and the crack in the back gets wider; it's a bit of a grovel but not as bad as it looks from below. Once out of the chimney walk towards the tower and you'll see an anchor built off a bomber bush which just sounds silly. Belay from here.
Pitch two: Walk around to the back of the tower. Climb 5.9 hands and traverse right through loose 5.6 when the crack fades out to reach another crack. Climb 5.8 mostly hands to the summit.
Location
Getting off: rap pitch 2. walk back to the bush and do another rap from here to the ground. a 60m rope might make it but a 70 will for sure,
Protection
Desert Rock III called for a triple set but a double set from tips to #5 Camalots should suffice for most parties. 5-6 long runners to keep your rope running smoothly. One 70m rope. Extra webbing for the anchors would probably be a good idea; the anchors were fine when we climbed it but as it'll probably be another decade until someone else gets up there they'll most likely need to be replaced by then.
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