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Routes in (i) Lip-Smack

Crack Slabbath V2 5+
Crackhead V3 6A
Hulkster's Humpfest V2 5+
Paperboy V2 5+
WWF Action V3 6A
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 446 total · 12/month
Shared By: Hans on Jun 22, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Start matched on the right side of the boulder on a good incut edge. Traverse the rail left and up to the lip using some combination of heel hooks and/or horrifically bad feet.

The first time I tried this it felt ridiculously hard for V2, and then I tried the heel hook. Aha.

A nice problem and deserving of its Top 100 status.

Location

I recommend purchasing Marc Bourdon's excellent guidebook from one of the local stores, but even with that I thought it was rather tricky to find.

Take the trail that leads into the forest by the Superfly boulder. Follow this trail for a short distance to a fork. The naked statue is by this fork. Going right leads to Bobo Jones, Cheese Grater, the Black Dyke boulder, and more. Going left leads up towards the Grand Wall. Take this left fork for Paperboy.

After a very short distance you will pass the obvious Crackhead boulder on your right and off the trail, with a large tree sticking out of it. Paperboy is a short distance beyond this, also on the right, and is not visible from the trail.

Protection

A nice flat landing and a fairly low top out makes Paperboy quite safe with just a single pad and no spotter.

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