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Routes in Sugar Bowl
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Anything but Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Back Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backdoor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fire Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Five O'clock Shadow T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spoiled by Shade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stairs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 611 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Marta Reece on Jun 22, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Five O'clock Shadow is an easy beginner's lead with potential for a more difficult climbing, possibly on top rope. The rock quality is good (not like the choss to the left of it). It is a protectable, fun route on clean rock.
Go up the easy slab staying to the right of the bulges. This will keep it just above fourth class. (The climbing is fourth only at the very start.) Step to the left after the second bulge, using a break in the corner, then continue up until you are level with the largish oak tree. You may sling the horn on the right or use the tree for belay.
Alternatives: The first bulge is an interesting 5.7, the second is easier at about 5.5. You can do just one or both.
Go up the easy slab staying to the right of the bulges. This will keep it just above fourth class. (The climbing is fourth only at the very start.) Step to the left after the second bulge, using a break in the corner, then continue up until you are level with the largish oak tree. You may sling the horn on the right or use the tree for belay.
Alternatives: The first bulge is an interesting 5.7, the second is easier at about 5.5. You can do just one or both.
Location
Left of the "bowl" part of Sugar Bowl, on sloping ground. The best approach is to go to the gully to the right/west and approach it from the right going up a grassy ridge line. Once at the base of the rock, traverse past a boulder and down a bit.
The rappel off the tree will take you to the start of the route. A single 60m rope is good enough if you either head for the boulder or are willing to scramble the easy bottom of the slope.
The rappel off the tree will take you to the start of the route. A single 60m rope is good enough if you either head for the boulder or are willing to scramble the easy bottom of the slope.
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