[Hide Comment] This route would be incredible on lead, however, I wouldn't trust any gear placement at Carderock due to the nature of the rock. Nov 26, 2018

[Hide Comment] I don't understand all this fear concerning the rock quality here. The "don't lead climb at Carderock" thing seems fairly new. The rock is sold, placements, while sometimes tricky (not this climb - pretty straight forward here) have the necessary integrity. I've actually done bounce tests on this specific climb and could not get anything from a pink tri-cam to a #2 BD cam to budge. Like placing gear in any type of rock, the leader needs to understand both their own and the gears limits, as well as the rocks. Well placed gear by a competent leader here, you're all good. The cracks that take gear here take it well. That said - this is not the best place for a new leader to cut their teeth (though Sterling's was one of my first leads ever), and I see the type of shit show that could ensue if everyone with a shiny new rack in the DC area came here and started plugging gear. This climb is a fun and easy lead. Apr 4, 2019

[Hide Comment] I agree with Timmamok-na. The rock in general at Carderock is very solid. Because most everything can be done on Top rope (if not high-ball bouldered), NOT many people actually lead. And it's kinda a fish-bowl community, everyone is watching and of course passing judgement on everything from technique to gear choice.. Unless you have a really strong ego, I'd advise learning elsewhere, less crowded.. But then again it is 5.5... thats where people should start (roughly)...My 2 cents. Apr 5, 2019

[Hide Comment] Also, remember Carderock is short enough you can setup a top-rope in addition and 'practice' lead. This is a good technique, and gives you added security while you learn. Take time to weight some of your lead anchors, to see how well your placements were. This will give you confidence when the shit hits the fan later in life.. Apr 5, 2019